Exploring Graubünden: Kid-Tested Family Adventures

by Christen Fleming, April 02, 2025

My 9-year-old son and I recently explored the canton of Graubünden in southeastern Switzerland with the goal of discovering great activities the whole family would love. We were amazed by the abundance of opportunities, many of which are off the beaten track for most non-Swiss tourists! I relied heavily on his opinions for the following recommendations, so rest assured that these options are not only kid-tested and approved but also enjoyable for travelers of all ages.

First, a bit about Graubünden—it’s not a destination often requested by my clients unless they’re interested in the Bernina Express (which, aside from one station in Italy, runs entirely through this canton). Graubünden is Switzerland’s largest canton, renowned for its dramatic alpine landscapes, pristine lakes, and charming villages. While other regions boast features that sound similar, Graubünden’s unique character sets it apart—something that truly MUST be experienced in person to fully appreciate. For those seeking an active holiday, it offers endless opportunities for hiking, skiing, and biking, all far from the tour buses that can crowd more popular parts of Switzerland.

We chose two bases for this portion of our trip: Chur, Switzerland’s oldest city, and Laax, a modern resort known for its active outdoor atmosphere. In Chur, we stayed at the 4-star Hotel Stern, a lovingly-maintained traditional property in the Old Town section of the city. This hotel is an excellent choice for those looking for a unique and historic stay. The Old Town of Chur rivals that of any other well-known historic center in Switzerland with its beautiful buildings, narrow car-free streets, and charming squares.

Located 40 minutes by bus from Chur is the Squirrel Forest in Lenzerheide. This peaceful stroller-friendly trail winds through the forest where patient visitors can hand-feed playful squirrels and curious birds too. An early arrival is key here (along with a bag full of hazelnuts, of course) to enjoy the trail as it does get busy later in the morning.

On the way back to Chur, stop in Churwalden for a ride on Switzerland’s longest toboggan run. Take the chairlift up to 1,750 meters, then zoom down past grazing cows, all while enjoying stunning alpine views. Reaching speeds of up to 40 km/h (there are hand brakes for control if needed), this exhilarating experience is fun for the whole family and can be enjoyed in both summer and winter.

Take a train ride just over an hour south from Chur along the UNESCO World Heritage-recognized Albula Line to Bergün, a charming village and home of the Albula Railway Museum. A must-visit for rail enthusiasts like my son, the museum provides insights into the history and engineering of the Rhaetian Railway and features an extraordinarily detailed model train display. The true highlight for us, however, was the historic Crocodile train simulator, which offers visitors a guided hands-on experience of what it’s like to drive this iconic locomotive.

We next took the bus just 45 minutes away to Laax where we spent the next few nights at the 4-star rocksresort. This modern alpine resort is perfectly situated at the foot of the LAAX lift station and surrounded by numerous biking and hiking trails, making it an ideal destination for outdoor enthusiasts of all ages year-round. The fully-equipped apartments, diverse restaurant options, freestyle academy, treetop walkway (complete with marble runs and an epic slide descent), and on-site childcare make it the ultimate base for an unforgettable family getaway (as well as my son’s new favorite hotel ever!).

Just minutes by bus from Laax, the Connbächli Trail in Flims quickly became one of my all-time favorite family-friendly hikes. This delightful route winds through the forest alongside a small canal of crystal blue water where children can launch boats, adding an element of play (and distraction) to the scenic walk. The soothing sound of the babbling brook and the fun of watching the boat navigate the canal made this hike an absolute joy. The trail passes the stunning Crestasee before ending in Conn, where I highly recommend climbing the Il Spir tower for breathtaking views of the Rhine Gorge.

Graubünden is a region I cannot recommend highly enough for families, offering an incredible mix of activities, breathtaking landscapes, and unique experiences for all ages. We found endless opportunities to connect with nature, culture, and adventure, and I’m already looking forward to returning as my children grow, knowing there is still so much more to explore and enjoy in this extraordinary part of Switzerland.

All photos by Christen Fleming of Magic Switzerland