From Chur to Tirano,  A Journey Through the Alps

By Sara Werren, August 20, 2025

Our trip started early in Chur, boarding the famous Bernina–Albula Line, which takes you through the canton of Graubünden all the way to Tirano, Italy. This line is best known for the Bernina Express, but regular trains also run the same route. It passes through some of the most scenic spots in the Alps, a region recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

There are two ways to experience this unique railway:

• If you want to travel at a faster pace, the Bernina Express is the best choice. It guarantees a reserved seat and offers an amazing atmosphere with incredible panoramic windows.
• If you have time and prefer to make stops along the way—leaving your luggage stored at a hotel—the regular train (same route as the Bernina Express) is perfect.

The train winds through valleys, across viaducts, and past small villages, slowly climbing into the higher Alps.

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Mt. Diavolezza Stop

We chose the regular train and stopped at Diavolezza station around midday, where a cable car took us directly up to Mt. Diavolezza—almost 3,000 meters above sea level. The view of the glacier left us speechless; it’s so close you feel you could almost touch it. At the top, there’s also a cozy mountain hut where you can soak in the incredible views of glaciers and snowy peaks even longer. After some gentle hiking, we continued toward our next destination, Bernina Hospiz, re-boarding the popular Rhätische Bahn at the Diavolezza valley station.

A Night at the Highest Train Station

Bernina Hospiz is more than just a stop—it’s the highest train station on the Bernina Line, at 2,253 meters above sea level, surrounded by pristine mountain scenery: clear alpine lakes and rugged peaks. We stayed the night in a simple, traditional hotel full of history. With wooden interiors, hearty alpine meals, and stories from travelers over the decades, it felt unchanged by time. The quietness of the surrounding Alps was part of the magic. 

Walking to Alp Grüm

The next morning, we left Bernina Hospiz on foot, heading downhill along a well-marked trail to Alp Grüm. The gentle, scenic walk revealed glacier views and sweeping valleys. After about 1 hour 30 minutes, we reached the charming Hotel Ristorante Belvedere, the perfect place for a break. Tea and homemade crumble cake on the terrace, with the Palü Glacier dominating the view, felt like the ultimate reward before boarding the train again.

Next Stop: Poschiavo

From Alp Grüm, the train descends into the valley, winding through forests and meadows until it reaches Poschiavo. This stretch is a highlight in itself—the train passes so close to the trees and rivers before opening up to one postcard-perfect view after another.

Poschiavo is a peaceful village with a unique blend of Swiss and Italian culture. Lunch here is a treat: fresh pasta, wood-fired pizza, and traditional dishes like pizzoccheri—buckwheat pasta with potatoes, cabbage, melted cheese, butter, and sage—a hearty plate perfect for the mountain setting.

After lunch, we wandered cobblestone streets and visited the daily market, where locals sell handmade soaps, cheeses, and crafts. For history lovers, Poschiavo’s roots stretch back to 824 (then called Postclave). Located in the Italian-speaking part of Graubünden, it has long balanced ties to nearby Italy with connections to Switzerland. The village joined the Free State of the Three Leagues ( an independent Alpine confederation) in 1524, and later became part of Graubünden in 1803. Elegant Renaissance palazzi—built by locals who returned from abroad with newfound wealth—still line the streets, telling stories of prosperity and cultural exchange.

Further to Tirano – A Taste of Italy

If time allows, continuing to Tirano is well worth it. It’s only about a 40-minute ride, but as soon as you arrive, the atmosphere shifts. Tirano’s piazzas are framed by historic buildings, small churches, and narrow streets where laundry still hangs between windows. The central square, Piazza Cavour, is perfect for a moment to pause.

Don’t miss the Basilica of Madonna di Tirano, an elegant Renaissance church that stands out against the mountains. Tirano’s courtyards, arches, and hidden corners make it a joy to explore without a plan.

Tirano is also a great destination to continue the journey to either Milano or continuing your travels in Switzerland in Lugano. 

To sum up, the Bernina–Albula Line also known as Bernina Express Line is truly a sight, and I cannot recommend it enough. The landscapes from the train are incredible, offering one breathtaking view after another. Onboard commentary points out key sights along the way, so you won’t miss any of the highlights. If you have the time, do not miss out on this highlight!

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